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Jo Paoletti

@jbpaoletti.bsky.social

I write about fashion and gender at https://gendermystique.substack.com/ I write about other things at https://substack.com/@jopaoletti I also knit. alot. https://www.jbpaoletti.com/ I block randos.

244 Followers  |  165 Following  |  136 Posts  |  Joined: 13.11.2024
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Posts by Jo Paoletti (@jbpaoletti.bsky.social)

The sword on the right-hand child makes it likely it’s a boy. The middle figure leans girl to my eyes and the one on the left leans ever so slightly male. At any rate, there’s nothing in the style of the dresses that is clearly gendered for that time. It’s so hard to take our 2026 lenses off!

13.02.2026 23:23 β€” πŸ‘ 5    πŸ” 1    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0
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Secrets to tell I have the weirdest dreams right before sunrise. #poetry

open.substack.com/pub/jopaolet...

13.02.2026 22:23 β€” πŸ‘ 0    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

All true, but I took Varley’s reaction as a cheeky commentary on Lady F’s horrible taste. Like my childhood pup who rejected Mom’s meatloaf.

12.02.2026 02:15 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0
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The Revolution will be Litigated - Part 2 Who wears the pants? The horror of women in trousers.

The Revolution will be Litigated - Part 2 open.substack.com/pub/gendermy... #fashionhistory #gender

11.02.2026 16:53 β€” πŸ‘ 0    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

They do it for me.

09.02.2026 23:21 β€” πŸ‘ 3    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

Fashion historian here. It’s visual historical fiction/fantasy, like the music and the non-period dances. And I adore every delicious bit of it.

07.02.2026 03:47 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0
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Just a reminder 'twasn’t always so

open.substack.com/pub/gendermy... #fashionhistory #gender

06.02.2026 23:04 β€” πŸ‘ 0    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0
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The Knitting Tote Bag Part three of why knitting mattered in my university teaching life.

open.substack.com/pub/susanstr...

An absolutely beautiful read. Knitting knowledge not necessary. But if you knit, you will love it.

28.01.2026 00:42 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0
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Hans Mansson Goes to a Bar Mitzvah A tale with a dash of truth

Hans Mansson Goes to a Bar Mitzvah
open.substack.com/pub/jopaolet...

A little fun thing I wrote.

27.01.2026 19:39 β€” πŸ‘ 1    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

I think if I had his job, I would be delirious from the smell for hours after getting off work.

24.01.2026 15:00 β€” πŸ‘ 0    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

I forgot the tag. 😒 #fashionhistory #gender

18.01.2026 02:53 β€” πŸ‘ 3    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0
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The Revolution Will Be Litigated, Part 1 Longhairs in American courts

The Revolution Will Be Litigated, Part 1
open.substack.com/pub/gendermy...

17.01.2026 21:51 β€” πŸ‘ 1    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 1
Client Challenge

www.nature.com/articles/d41...
β€œA lot of people have long regarded same-sex behaviour as an accident, or rare, or only in zoo animals,” says co-author Vincent Savolainen, an evolutionary biologist at Imperial College London. But β€œit’s part of the normal social life of primates”.

14.01.2026 19:15 β€” πŸ‘ 10    πŸ” 3    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

Had me at Kirby. I love that little guy.

02.01.2026 22:33 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0
My word is β€œslapdash”.

My word is β€œslapdash”.

I’ll take it.

01.01.2026 23:39 β€” πŸ‘ 3    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

Maybe it’s time for me to pull together an FAQ about pink and blue on my Substack. Post or DM me your questions and I’ll get started. Can we set a deadline of January 4?
#FashionHistory

29.12.2025 02:11 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 2    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

So was I. :)
And there definitely were regional variations. In Disney’s Peter Pan (1952), Michael wears a pink sleeper. They recolored it for the modern release. And there were small German Catholic communities in Nebraska that still used blue for the girl color in the early 1980s.

29.12.2025 02:01 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

About as complicated as gender, in fact. And just as fascinating.

29.12.2025 01:49 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

And I am talking only about the U.S. A Korean grad student gave my son two pink and white onesies in 1986. It’s much more complicated than most people realize.

29.12.2025 01:48 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

Think of it more as swirling symbolism that finally congeals into pink/girl and blue/boy after WW2. Even then, it wasn’t until the 1980s that pink really became off limits for boy babies.

29.12.2025 01:45 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 2    πŸ“Œ 0

I found pink clothes for boys as late as the 1970s, but that was pretty rare, and regional (southern U.S.) Pinkification of girls’ stuff started to harden in the 1980s.

28.12.2025 21:28 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

That’s my understanding, too. I recall reading that a zigzag shaped wound from fencing was also referred to as β€œpinked”.

28.12.2025 19:58 β€” πŸ‘ 2    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

And β€œpink” wasn’t used as a color word until the 18th century. Fun stuff. www.etymonline.com/word/pink

28.12.2025 19:00 β€” πŸ‘ 6    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 2    πŸ“Œ 0
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Where to buy pink clothes for boys, 1927 This article appeared in the November 14, 1927 issue of Time magazine.

Finally, a fun bit of evidence from 1927.
open.substack.com/pub/gendermy...

28.12.2025 18:57 β€” πŸ‘ 6    πŸ” 1    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

and a more recent post from my Substack. Note the use of β€œsometimes” in the first sentence. open.substack.com/pub/gendermy...

28.12.2025 18:55 β€” πŸ‘ 5    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

Here’s an old blog post about the slow transition of pink as a signifier. gender-mystique.weebly.com/blog/when-di... (So old some of the links dont’ work. Sorry…I am retired.) 2/3

28.12.2025 18:54 β€” πŸ‘ 6    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

Hi there. I wrote β€œPink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America”, and am often cited as the source of this misinformation. While it was worn by boys and men, it was never just a masculine color. There was no β€œreversal” of pink from masculine to feminine. 1/3

28.12.2025 18:51 β€” πŸ‘ 9    πŸ” 2    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0

Well, sometimes only the website survives…. :(

28.12.2025 13:11 β€” πŸ‘ 0    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 0    πŸ“Œ 0

Balls of yarn. Very nice yarn.

27.12.2025 22:06 β€” πŸ‘ 1    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0
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Foster & Muriel McCarl Coverlet Gallery Collection Browse folders and entries from Foster & Muriel McCarl Coverlet Gallery

Don’t stop me now…

hub.catalogit.app/mccarl-gallery

27.12.2025 21:12 β€” πŸ‘ 1    πŸ” 0    πŸ’¬ 1    πŸ“Œ 0