scottbez1

Yellow line does not look like what you want to see on a CC boost output with a static load... 2v fluctuations at ~160Hz.

This is on the Adafruit TPS61169 CC LED boost breakout board - more details on my issue here: forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.ph...

I'm a boost converter noob - any ideas?

Ok this AI hype is out of hand. This is for a Qi charger 🤦‍♂️

😲 woah this is INSANE!!!!!!!

It's a little too wobbly right now, so I probably need to add a 3rd wire inside for support

Successfully modified my Ikea Tvärhand lamp to use a custom 24V "knot" filament bulb, with ESPHome integration.

Next up is modifying the base to add a dimmer knob of some sort...

Adafruit TPS61169 Constant Current Boost Converter for LEDs The Adafruit Constant Current Boost Converter for LEDs makes driving LEDs easy, whether they're in series or parallel - with a chip that can generate up to 40V and 400mA from 3~5V ...

Adafruit's new TPS61169 board www.adafruit.com/product/6354 is literally perfect for a project I'm working on, but I hesitated ordering while I looked for other things to add to my cart and now they're sold out 😭.

Not available from distributors like mouser or digikey either 😥

GitHub - keyboardio/attiny_i2c_bootloader: An I2C bootloader for ATTiny devices based on AVR112. An I2C bootloader for ATTiny devices based on AVR112. - keyboardio/attiny_i2c_bootloader

github.com/keyboardio/a... looks like maybe a good project to review and adapt for 1-series?

Any tips or things I should be aware of @s.ly?

It seems like maybe there's optiboot support for ATtiny 1, but I believe that's serial-based?

Anything off the shelf for I2C on ATtiny 1 or will I have to learn how to write my own bootloader?

Anyone have experience writing bootloaders for ATtiny 1 series chips? I'd like to have an I2C setup that can:

1) enter bootloader mode from I2C command or via gpio on power up
2) read I2C address offset from jumpers
3) receive/ack program over I2C (or timeout)
4) restart into new program

Also picked up a mirrored glass globe to explore making my own "bulb" with low voltage filament...

It's a 12v bulb that will happily screw into an E26 socket... Why?!?!?!

Dimmable!

I'm temporarily setting aside that Ikea bulb, but I discovered these cursed low voltage filament bulbs with an E26 socket that kind of fit what I was looking for... 🤔

Haha, I've been researching exactly that! I'll probably give it a try later... 🤞

Pretty interesting construction, but since it's a real sealed glass bulb there's no way for me to swap out the LED filament for something lower voltage, making this not very useful to me.... 😢

Oh well, it was a fun teardown at least, and I hope y'all enjoyed the photos!

Got it apart. Pretty cute through-pcb connectors so the PCBAs can be pressed onto the wires sticking out of the glass bulb without soldering.

But then I remembered that it doesn't really make sense for these to drop down to low voltage, so this filament is going to be > 100V of series LEDs...

There are many reasons why American plugs are poorly designed, but I love being able to "lock out" a plug using the holes when I'm working on the other end and want to avoid accidental plug-ins.

Normally I use zip ties, but a twist tie is better than nothing to signal "don't plug this in!"

I have no idea how the lower half of the socket is attached to the lamp, but I think I might just leave it and design the replacement low voltage lamp base to snap into those same clips (but I'll make it WAY easier to reach to release them!)

I'm going to continue the Molnart bulb teardown soon, but in the meantime I started modifying the TVÄRHAND lamp base.

First up was removing the E26 socket (labeled E258238). Very tricky to release both clips simultaneously with no access to the sides, and limited clearance for tools.

I suspect I'll have to take the Big Clive diagonal cutter can opener approach, and then 3d print a new base to cover the adhesive that's left.

youtu.be/NagYUBiAVFE for reference

In the photos it looks like the electronics and socket base are all glued to the glass, and assuming this is following similar manufacturing techniques as classic incandescent bulbs, I'm guessing it's not a heat-set adhesive that I could remove easily...

Excess glue seen oozing out between the metal and glass

Quite a bit of glue seems to be visible in the base of the lamp, between the glass, metal shell, and PCB

Ikea has a bunch of cool filament decorative bulbs (Molnart) but they aren't dimmable, so I'm exploring converting them (and the lamp) to low voltage DC and controlling with esphome. Seems nicer than 120v triac dimming too.

Anyone have tips/experience taking them apart without shattering the glass?

Wow, that's excellent!

Randomly decided to run a Father's Day sale halfway through the day 😂

Get your DIY Split-Flap parts 10% off for the next ~12 hours: bezeklabs.etsy.com

(And this is all pre-tariff inventory so this is likely the cheapest things will ever be again...)

I'm a big fan of the Inspelning (and Tretakt for non energy monitoring). Mostly because Ikea is a big name with a lot to lose if they cheap out on things, and they have a strong history of taking safety recalls seriously in the event there is an issue with their products. And the price is right!

I've seen weird "brand" names on Amazon before, but this was a new one!

It doesn't even beep continuously to alert you anything is wrong, just an obscure F1E4 error code and the ominous buzz as it continuously heats.

This thing is only 5 years old so they clearly cost-cut this into planned obsolescence.

I'm just glad they didn't cost-cut the door interlock switch.

A bit of a scary failure mode on this Whirlpool microwave - the main power relay got stuck on so it just runs the magnetron continually as long as the door is shut (listen to the buzz).

When it failed it basically just kept running even after time was up - luckily we hadn't walked away.

Is there anything like cleco fasteners but for attaching probes to through-hole test points?

Parts with modeled threads can't just be mirrored and printed 🤦‍♂️

Realized my mistake about 10 seconds after the 4 hour print completed

When I say quality, I'm largely talking construction (side to side wobble) and drivetrain/pedal-assist.

E.g. in the past Rad had awful assist compared to the Bosch mid-drive, so I've ignored Rad since then, but maybe they've stepped up? Other new brands or old brands with new bikes to look at?

It's been a while since I did some research and test rides, but is a Tern GSD still the solid choice e-bike for kid/grocery hauling?

Have other long tails caught up to the GSD in terms of quality/convenience?

Should I be looking at bucket bikes? (I disliked Urban Arrow test ride previously)