Jeff Chen

Maybe I'll have to replace that sus 150V rail cap first and see if it changes anything, since it's also part of the feedback (and supposedly more important.) What a mystery🫠

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I know some of those words!🤪

The service manual is here.
www.manualslib.com/manual/10349...

I think the whole power section is here... But I'm just a dummy🤪

It looks like to me that the output of the 150V (B+) bridge rectifier was taken and sent to IC611 for feedback. But I'm really not experience enough to say so.

Thanks! I'll start looking for said feedback circuit👀

All I can say is that the suspected bulging cap is on the B+ line.

What I'm not sure is how it could affect other voltages coming out of the other windings of the same transformer🤔

Funny enough, all the affected voltages are around only 77% of the designed values. So it's like a voltage issue before their combined transformer?🤔

It’s a tricky shot. But the top is ever so slightly out than flat, and the metal in the grooves are shinier than the surrounding metal. Might not be optimal?

Opened up the CRT again.

A bunch of voltages are much too low than the design, like 12V, 80V and 150V. -5V is entirely missing.

Also found a crack in the board, prolly due to the drop. And a cap that’s not quite happy🤔

Guess I still have a lot of work ahead🫠

Judging from the length of the cable you can go up to 4-way?🤪

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This is a great base to update to! With future updates I may add just few small tweaks or new profiles.
First watch the video on how to update profiles 👇
Video: youtu.be/YPknWg4OTl8?...
Profiles download: drive.google.com/file/d/19i7w...

I checked the board and fixed a bunch of cracked joints. But I can’t say I’ve got 100% of them. Before the fix, the set work stop booting and react to mechanical disturbances, but not anymore. I just hope it’s power related and not the flybak🫠

Right now I’m not so sure if it’s a cap since usually the symptoms would change after some rest. But this thing is now very consistent no matter what. But obviously, something is now stably broken😂

Is it typical for caps to crap out after a few days of torture and the monitor start having this kinda issues?😅

This is the only one I have that can do ESR so I have no other reference🤣 Other readings like resistance and capacitance is quite accurate.

I wonder if you can break in new caps with an oven😂

The WIN98 directory is all you need. Boot the PC with a floppy and then go there on your HDD and run setup. Might also need smartdrv loaded since setup likes to complain about that being missing.

For me it's a slow 486 with a quirky BIOS and proprietary accessories that runs a funny OS and a few dozens of niche games. It's so overpriced that you might not find it worth it.🫠

Put 0.5/1R in series and the numbers are actually pretty accurate??🤔

Put a 20 ohm resistor in serial with the cap. The capacitance is still correct, the ESR does not reflect the value of the resistor, but I have no knowledge about how ESR behaves like this😂

講真？👀

Search LCR-P1 on Aliexpress.

Yikes. I bought this thing mainly to test caps. Now I feel a bit dumb🤡

New toy!

And these 32yo caps from the FM Towns are not even bad??👀

But I was never on the strong side. Also the computer together with a full table cannot be easy on any scale. I also remember that I ditched the whole damn thing when I left that work. So it must have been very hard😂

It must be that... I have no other explanation🤡

There are now gaps in my memories...

Like, how did I carry my LG 775FT CRT plus the entire PC setup 300KM away from my hometown to the city I work, and up to the 7th floor, 20 years ago... I have zero recollection at all💀

The humming of the machine... it warms you during those cool nights😌

I am covering EVERY First Person Shooter EVER made in Japan.

From 1985 to 2025, that's over 40 years and 70 games of gaming history.

Link: youtu.be/F80Cl6WzBNo?...

This was without a doubt the most ambitious video I've ever made.

You can roll it every Saturday at 6:30PM with Keke🤡