Quick little 3 colour risograph I printed today - I will be hiding these around a park in Toronto tomorrow for Art & Found Day!
By farrrr the most satisfying part of all this
My most important contribution to cosplay lol
You’ll also need ears and a tail but uhhhhhh this is a long thread so I think I’ll pause here for now. If you have any questions don’t hesitate 🎀
Thank you to @lxe.bsky.social and @kameraninja.bsky.social for the wonderful finished photos 💖
Lastly, I sewed some snaps at the crotch. This way you can go pee if you’re wearing the bunnysuit for a long time without having to unlace yourself. 🐰 20/
Home stretch! If you’re still reading this I applaud you tbh. The next step is grommets. You can hand sew these if you want a more historical look but I used some regular two-part grommets, and awl, and a mallet. 19/
I trimmed off the seam allowance of my lining layer and sewed the edge of some bias tape to the edge of the lining layer. Now it’s possible to carefully fold over the outer layer and slip stitch the bias tape to the lining, which makes for a clean finish. 18/
Okay now they’re only one layer! This is great news. The top seam and centre back is complete! Now let’s make the leg holes cute too. As with every step, there are many ways of doing this. This is what I did: 17/
The way I assembled this suit was to sew the outer layer/interlining layer, right sides together, at the centre back and top side, then turn right side out. I made matching piping for the top because I think it looks nice. 16/
I also added juuuuust a little elastic to the interlining layer at the bum to make sure the fabric wouldn’t gape once the suit was on. Not necessary, but then again the whole suit isn’t necessary so might as well go all the way 😅 15/
Now you have your lining, interlining, and outer layer! Time to merge layers. I started by basting my interlining to my lining, with the boning channels facing the lining (to keep the outside as smooth as possible) 14/
Because the seams are curved, it won’t match perfectly everywhere. I recommend making it match at the widest part of the garment, which is often the focal point anyway. Remember to account for seam allowance! 13/
This process is fussy but rewarding. There are many ways to pattern match but I find it easiest to determine your centre front and move outward piece by piece. It’s not the most efficient way to use fabric so you may need more yardage than usual. 12/
The lining went together easily, but the outside layer was complicated. The fabric I chose had a large tropical bird print, and the narrow pattern pieces of the suit meant losing the birds, unless I matched up the patterns at the seams. 11/
Make sure you cut your boning shorter than the channels so you have room to sew your seams, and your bones have wiggle room in the finished garment. Once your bones are installed, you can set your interlining aside and assemble the other 2 layers. 10/
There’s a variety of things you can use as boning: steel, synthetic whalebone, industrial cable ties, spiral steel bones, etc. They all have pros and cons, but I can say I used spiral steel for the more complex curves and mostly cable ties for the straight up-and-down ones. 9/
Once the waist tape is added, you’re free to add your boning channels. These should be snug but not toooooo tight, because that will cause your bones to poke through over time. I used grosgrain ribbon for the channels. 8/
After assembling the interlining, I added a waist tape. This is usually done with grosgrain ribbon or twill tape, and it’s sewn down across the waistline. This will help support your seams where they experience the most stress, and helps cinch your waist. 7/
The interlining is what I built first once the mock-up was complete. At every step, ironing is your best friend. It will help shape the garment and your bunnysuit will fit so much better if you iron after sewing each seam. Make sure to clip your seam allowance on curves too 6/
There are many ways to build the suit itself but using an interlining is my favourite method. The interlining holds the boning and any other supports you may need, which allows your outside layer and lining to be nice and smooth. 5/
For this bunnysuit I used a lightweight printed cotton for the outside, and destashed some lilac fabric for the lining, so I added a secret third interlining layer to provide the sturdiness I needed. I used a heavier weight cotton twill. 4/
Fabric choice is the next big thing. A classic bunnysuit has no stretch, and needs a sturdy fabric to offer the proper support and to withstand all the stress at the seams. But what if you want to just use something pretty? 3/
Every bunnysuit starts with a pattern. I modified @yayahan.bsky.social McCall’s pattern! There are many good patterns out there, but whatever you choose, I recommend making a mock-up, since the fit needs to be exact. 2/
How do you make a bunnysuit? It’s a simple looking garment but making a good one is a complex process. Here’s a little thread about how I made my breakup bunnysuit (inspired by the breakup robe from Our Flag Means Death) 🧵1/
I really liked it! Excited to hear your thoughts!
The beard completely fooled me and now I’m wondering if I would recognize Clark Kent without his glasses lol
Same guy btw
Saaaaaaame it’s such a wild ride
Here to serve 🫡
The most women’s wrongs per page of any books series I can think of (complimentary)
