Arch Quaintrelle

Maharani Sita Devi of Kapurthala: Presence Royalty, fashion icon, haute couture muse, jet setter and frequently fawned over by Vogue magazine. Dubbed ‘The Rose of India’ and ‘Pearl of India’; this style trailblazer who has been relegated in recent years. She was the Maharani Sita Devi of Kapurthala. Please note there is another fabulous Maharani, Sita Devi the Maharani of Baroda who is often mistaken for Sita Devi of Kapurthala.

Maharani Sita Devi of Kapurthala: Presence

Royalty, fashion icon, haute couture muse, jet setter and frequently fawned over by Vogue magazine. Dubbed ‘The Rose of India’ and ‘Pearl of India’; this style trailblazer who has been relegated in recent years. She was the Maharani Sita Devi of…

Pachucas: Pushing Boundaries To pivot slightly from my previous post regarding the Zoot suits in ‘Riotous Wear’. While many associate the Zoot Suit with the Black community, the Latin community were also as much attracted to non-conformity surrounding the aforementioned suit. Yet what is not as always mentioned was the role of women especially with the Latin community who used this suit as not only a sign of resistance against gender roles but also roles within their own cultural norms.

Pachucas: Pushing Boundaries

To pivot slightly from my previous post regarding the Zoot suits in ‘Riotous Wear’. While many associate the Zoot Suit with the Black community, the Latin community were also as much attracted to non-conformity surrounding the aforementioned suit. Yet what is not as…

Misia Sert: Coterie of Admirers The most fascinating muse you are unlikely to have heard of. Misia Sert. Born Maria Zofia Olga Zenajda Godebska on 30th March 1872 in St Petersburg, Russia. Her family originated in Poland and were all gifted musicians. Her mother died in childbirth and her father was a sculptor for the Tzar. Misia (a Polish variation of Maria) had a flare for piano, playing with family friend Franz Liszt.

Misia Sert: Coterie of Admirers

The most fascinating muse you are unlikely to have heard of. Misia Sert. Born Maria Zofia Olga Zenajda Godebska on 30th March 1872 in St Petersburg, Russia. Her family originated in Poland and were all gifted musicians. Her mother died in childbirth and her father…

Donyale Luna: Otherwordly Salvador Dali called her “the reincarnation of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti“. She was credited as being the first black supermodel and was simply a wonder to behold, for the short time she lived. Only in recent times is her name becoming better known. Donyale Luna. Born Peggy Ann Freeman on 31 August 1945, In Detroit Michigan USA. She gave herself the name Donyale Luna when still in her teens and she was a striking girl who turned heads with no effort.

Donyale Luna: Otherwordly

Salvador Dali called her “the reincarnation of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti“. She was credited as being the first black supermodel and was simply a wonder to behold, for the short time she lived. Only in recent times is her name becoming better known. Donyale Luna. Born Peggy…

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Sarita Montiel: Holding a Torch She was an actress, singer, sex symbol, LGBTQ+ idol, Spanish legend and feminist trailblazer. She was Sara Montiel.Also known as Sarita Montiel. Starting out as María Antonia Alejandra Vicenta Elpidia Isidora Abad Fernández on 10th March 1928 in Campo de Criptana, Spain. Beginning her career at the tender age of 16, taking the stage name Sara Montiel. Sara after her grandmother and Montiel after the Montiel fields from her hometown of La Mancha.

Sarita Montiel: Holding a Torch

She was an actress, singer, sex symbol, LGBTQ+ idol, Spanish legend and feminist trailblazer. She was Sara Montiel.Also known as Sarita Montiel. Starting out as María Antonia Alejandra Vicenta Elpidia Isidora Abad Fernández on 10th March 1928 in Campo de Criptana,…

Helen Williams: Enchanté

Beauty is beauty. It is not a rigid concept that dictates that you HAVE to be anything. Regardless of this, western society has been (and to certain extend still is) rather tyrannical in promoting one version of female beauty. So historically speaking, imagine such…

Mellerio Dits Meller: Family Affair Established haute joaillerie names are typically easy to recall; Cartier, Boucheron and Chopard. Companies that a great history, encompassing that changing clientele. From royalty, aristocracy to stars of the silver screen to the elite of today. Yet one name deserves to be included yet is not so identifiable. You may not even recognise them. Mellerio dits Meller. Founded in 1613. Making them not only the oldest jewellery brand in France, the oldest family run jewellers and even oldest in Europe.

Mellerio Dits Meller: Family Affair

Established haute joaillerie names are typically easy to recall; Cartier, Boucheron and Chopard. Companies that a great history, encompassing that changing clientele. From royalty, aristocracy to stars of the silver screen to the elite of today. Yet one name…

Philip Treacy: Natural Born Milliner To be fascinated by hats and to not include one of the best milliners today is criminal. So let’s remedy that by featuring one Philip Treacy. Born on 26th May 1967 in Ahascragh, Galway, Ireland. From a tender age Treacy began to take an interest fashion, creating clothes aged 6. Surely a sign of a child prodigy. In 1985, Treacy left his small town for the bright lights of Dublin to study fashion at National College of Art and Design.

Philip Treacy: Natural Born Milliner

To be fascinated by hats and to not include one of the best milliners today is criminal. So let’s remedy that by featuring one Philip Treacy. Born on 26th May 1967 in Ahascragh, Galway, Ireland. From a tender age Treacy began to take an interest fashion,…

Brown’s Hotel: To Your Liking Combing my love of literature, luxury and London, there is one hotel that fits the bill especially well. Granted there are no shortage of high end hotels around the world, particularly in London. As far as what interests me and what is likely to feature on AQ, I need history, some luxury and something that separates from the vast array of choice.

Brown’s Hotel: To Your Liking

Combing my love of literature, luxury and London, there is one hotel that fits the bill especially well. Granted there are no shortage of high end hotels around the world, particularly in London. As far as what interests me and what is likely to feature on AQ, I need…

Jeanne Duval: Amour Fou To inspire everlasting lust/love/obsession and whole hearted fixation. To have such a hold over one of the greatest poets of the 19th century. Yet to be a mystery that we still know so little about. Even her image is obscured by educated guesses. Meet Jeanne Duval. Born in 1820 ( exact date of birth is available) in France. A woman of Creole/Haitian heritage working as an actress and as a sex worker.

Jeanne Duval: Amour Fou

To inspire everlasting lust/love/obsession and whole hearted fixation. To have such a hold over one of the greatest poets of the 19th century. Yet to be a mystery that we still know so little about. Even her image is obscured by educated guesses. Meet Jeanne Duval. Born in…

Chelo Alonso: Bump & Grinding Hips She was not just a dancer, actress or even a pioneer for Latin entertainers in the wider world. She was a force of nature, one whose very hips can create earthquakes and everlasting ripples in our collective consciousness. She was Chelo Alonso. Born Isabel Apolonia García Hernández on 10th April 1933 in Camagüey, Cuba. As a child, she was dancing prodigy making her way to the National Theatre in Havana.

Chelo Alonso: Bump & Grinding Hips

She was not just a dancer, actress or even a pioneer for Latin entertainers in the wider world. She was a force of nature, one whose very hips can create earthquakes and everlasting ripples in our collective consciousness. She was Chelo Alonso. Born Isabel…

H.J Cave: Enterprising For those who are devoted to handbags; especially their history, their evolution to what we now use as our everyday keeper of secrets and essentials. The most obvious question has to be, who created the first handbag? Firstly, what we call handbags today has been in steady change for hundreds of years. Pouches were used for thousands of years, Chatelaines are a common precursor for handbags, a decorative chain what held a few useful objects.

H.J Cave: Enterprising

For those who are devoted to handbags; especially their history, their evolution to what we now use as our everyday keeper of secrets and essentials. The most obvious question has to be, who created the first handbag? Firstly, what we call handbags today has been in steady…

Le Boeuf sur le Toit: Crowd Pleaser Back to Paris for another instalment of Interwar year decadence. When for a brief time, people could let their hair down and had fun with the best and brightest. One essential visit was the cabaret venue, Le Beouf sur le Toit. Founded in 1922 by Louis Moysés. The name (translating to ‘Ox on the Roof’) was inspired by Brazilian song O Boi no Telhado, (yes the same title but in Portuguese) and it was reworking into French by Darius Milhaud.

Le Boeuf sur le Toit: Crowd Pleaser

Back to Paris for another instalment of Interwar year decadence. When for a brief time, people could let their hair down and had fun with the best and brightest. One essential visit was the cabaret venue, Le Beouf sur le Toit. Founded in 1922 by Louis Moysés.…

Guilia Tofana: Bottled Widowhood A meeting between beauty and crime might seem like an odd aspiration for a blogger. Beauty definitely; Crime, absolutely (especially by women, don’t ask why. We just devour deviancy). Not many stories really fulfil this brief. One story has captured my imagination that of Giulia Tofana and her ‘Aqua Tofana’ (sometimes known as ‘Manna di San Nicola’ or ‘Aqua Tuffania’

Guilia Tofana: Bottled Widowhood

A meeting between beauty and crime might seem like an odd aspiration for a blogger. Beauty definitely; Crime, absolutely (especially by women, don’t ask why. We just devour deviancy). Not many stories really fulfil this brief. One story has captured my imagination…

Lapérouse- Rendezvous Paris’ reputation for amorous encounters and ambiance is well earned. Especially when these establishments are far from shady dens of shame. But open, respectable venues of leisure and pleasure. One place in particular has an especially deserved and well documented history of intimacy and enjoyable company. Affectionately dubbed the ‘Maison de Plaisirs’ (House of Pleasure) A restaurant (typically I do not cover them as a subject but this one was too good to ignore) names Lapérouse.

Lapérouse- Rendezvous

Paris’ reputation for amorous encounters and ambiance is well earned. Especially when these establishments are far from shady dens of shame. But open, respectable venues of leisure and pleasure. One place in particular has an especially deserved and well documented history of…

Marie Duplessis: La Horizontale Camellias She enchanted the elite and powerful, was immortalised in great works of literature and music and music and died tragically young. Her name was Marie Duplessis. Born Alphonsine Rose Plessis on 15th January 1824 in Nonat-le pin in Normandy, France. As is the case for many sex workers, Plessis was born into a poor family with an abusive father who is said to have sold her to man when she was child.

Marie Duplessis: La Horizontale Camellias

She enchanted the elite and powerful, was immortalised in great works of literature and music and music and died tragically young. Her name was Marie Duplessis. Born Alphonsine Rose Plessis on 15th January 1824 in Nonat-le pin in Normandy, France. As is…

Ady Fidelin: Étincelant Man Ray dubbed her his “little black sun.” Picasso painted her portrait, was one of the first black models for a major publication and holidayed with Lee Miller. So why is her name so obscured? She was Adrienne ‘Ady’ Fidelin. Born on 4th March 1915, Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe, a French governed Archipelago in The Caribbean. Fidelin came from one of the oldest Creole families, sadly she was orphaned as a teenager and left for Paris to join family in the late 1920’s.

Ady Fidelin: Étincelant

Man Ray dubbed her his “little black sun.” Picasso painted her portrait, was one of the first black models for a major publication and holidayed with Lee Miller. So why is her name so obscured? She was Adrienne ‘Ady’ Fidelin. Born on 4th March 1915, Pointe-à-Pitre,…

Gladys Bentley: Tail Coats & Speakeasies One (of many) recent fascinations has been with the Harlem Renaissance. A movement based in Harlem, New York during the interwar years (so later 1910’s until the late 1930’s) of black artistic, intellectual and social achievement. During those years, literature, music, dance, singing, art, and social liberation against rigid racial restrictions and a need to break down cultural norms. One person from this movement immediately caught not only my eye but my curiosity.

Gladys Bentley: Tail Coats & Speakeasies

One (of many) recent fascinations has been with the Harlem Renaissance. A movement based in Harlem, New York during the interwar years (so later 1910’s until the late 1930’s) of black artistic, intellectual and social achievement. During those years,…

Carla Valentine: Forensically Aware As a teenager in the early 2000’s, I have been a crime consumer (be it true crime or fictional, it does not matter. Deviance is key) and of course CSI was a huge part of my education in forensics and investigation techniques. One woman was helped me to explore and expand this youthful passion with a more historical tinge. Meet Carla Valentine.

Carla Valentine: Forensically Aware

As a teenager in the early 2000’s, I have been a crime consumer (be it true crime or fictional, it does not matter. Deviance is key) and of course CSI was a huge part of my education in forensics and investigation techniques. One woman was helped me to explore…

María Félix: La Doña Gradiosa In furtherance of learning about not just vintage glamour icons but about the role played by people of colour in the film industry. Mexico did in fact have a ‘Golden Age’ for their film industry and one of its brightest stars was María Félix. Born María de los Ángeles Félix Güereña on 8th April 1914 in Álamos, Sonora, Mexico. One of sixteen child to a military man.

María Félix: La Doña Gradiosa

In furtherance of learning about not just vintage glamour icons but about the role played by people of colour in the film industry. Mexico did in fact have a ‘Golden Age’ for their film industry and one of its brightest stars was María Félix. Born María de los Ángeles…

Truefitt & Hill: In Distinguished Company Admittedly, men are a minority on AQ. Their fashion and grooming has been largely relegated to the back of the class. There is one element of gentlemen’s grooming that has been proving alluring recently is wet shaving and the associated ritual of pampering. Why shouldn’t men have a moment of luxuriating and calm? The relationship between women and the salon is well documented and accepted.

Truefitt & Hill: In Distinguished Company

Admittedly, men are a minority on AQ. Their fashion and grooming has been largely relegated to the back of the class. There is one element of gentlemen’s grooming that has been proving alluring recently is wet shaving and the associated ritual of…

James Smith & Sons: Weathering Storms Now back to Blightly and her love affair with brollies. To not feature a heritage umbrella company would simply be remiss of me. So who better to feature than James Smith& Sons Umbrella. Founded in 1830 by James Smith with a shop on Foubert’s Place just off of Regent Street. An ideal location so close to one of the busiest streets on London in the bustling West End.

James Smith & Sons: Weathering Storms

Now back to Blightly and her love affair with brollies. To not feature a heritage umbrella company would simply be remiss of me. So who better to feature than James Smith& Sons Umbrella. Founded in 1830 by James Smith with a shop on Foubert’s Place just off of…

Amanda Harlech: Creative Consultant To judge a person by the company they keep has a solid foundation of fact. No one elects to spend time with someone that they find repulsive. So when those are at the top of their fashionable fields choose to surround themselves with the same people. I certainly take notice. So when Stephen Jones and John Galliano sing your praises. You are will end up on my radar and added to my list of chic influences.

Amanda Harlech: Creative Consultant

To judge a person by the company they keep has a solid foundation of fact. No one elects to spend time with someone that they find repulsive. So when those are at the top of their fashionable fields choose to surround themselves with the same people. I certainly…

Coveted Cosmetic: Rimmel Exaggerate Liquid Eyeliner Black 1 In keeping with trying to feature more affordable products. I have chosen to focus on a cult product that does not cost the earth. Rimmel Exaggerate Liquid Eyeliner in Black 1. If you are looking f…

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Veronica Gedeon: Behind the Headlines Not such a well known true crime story but one that I feel deserves to be featured on AQ. The murder of Veronica Gedeon. Born in 1917 (the exact date is not known). To Hungarian parents who emigrated to the US in 1907. Growing up in Queens, New York. Gedeon’s family later moved to Manhattan to 318 East 50th Street. An attractive young woman, Gedeon begins modelling for popular pulp and detective publications.

Veronica Gedeon: Behind the Headlines

Not such a well known true crime story but one that I feel deserves to be featured on AQ. The murder of Veronica Gedeon. Born in 1917 (the exact date is not known). To Hungarian parents who emigrated to the US in 1907. Growing up in Queens, New York. Gedeon’s…

Myrdith Monaghan- Forbidden Flesh A much needed fix of model mystery. If you are a fan of William Mortensen’s gothic photographs, haunting yet dripping with allure. You will have certainly have admired the sensuality of model Myrdith Monaghan. Born on 18 Dec 1909 in Utah, USA little is known about Monaghan’s life. What is known is that she was an actress and modelled for her husband William Mortensen frequently during the 1930’s.

Myrdith Monaghan- Forbidden Flesh

A much needed fix of model mystery. If you are a fan of William Mortensen’s gothic photographs, haunting yet dripping with allure. You will have certainly have admired the sensuality of model Myrdith Monaghan. Born on 18 Dec 1909 in Utah, USA little is known about…

Guy de Jean: Take Cover Occasionally a stereotype is grounded in truth. Certainly were Brits and their umbrellas (or brollies) are concerned this is very accurate. In fact if you want to spot a Brit abroad (without hearing them first) a strong clue is that no matter the weather. We will have a brolly (no never know if you need it). Given that our own climate is predisposed to a downpour, we have learnt to always have one handy.

Guy de Jean: Take Cover

Occasionally a stereotype is grounded in truth. Certainly were Brits and their umbrellas (or brollies) are concerned this is very accurate. In fact if you want to spot a Brit abroad (without hearing them first) a strong clue is that no matter the weather. We will have a…

Coveted Cosmetic: Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Nuit Blanche Lipstick-Shade 00.00 Call it dogged determination or obsession. But I have finally traced one of Tish Weinstock’s red lipsticks of choice. I do have a desire to know what my icons and muses wear especially regarding red lipsticks. An endorsement that holds more weight with me than who ever is the current ‘celebs’ or more nauseating ‘influencer’. So which rouge adorns the lips of this Goth in Chief at Vogue?

Coveted Cosmetic: Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Nuit Blanche Lipstick-Shade 00.00

Call it dogged determination or obsession. But I have finally traced one of Tish Weinstock’s red lipsticks of choice. I do have a desire to know what my icons and muses wear especially regarding red lipsticks. An…

Maria Montez: Technicolour Tragedy, glamour and pioneers that were not appreciated in their time have an irresistible appeal. Certainly I cannot turn away from someone potent with potential that is never fully realised. Plus if they present a valuable representation of diversity that is more than relevant now. Sadly this stars name is not better known today. She was one of the few Latin actors in Hollywood during the 1940’-50’s who did not hide her heritage.

Maria Montez: Technicolour

Tragedy, glamour and pioneers that were not appreciated in their time have an irresistible appeal. Certainly I cannot turn away from someone potent with potential that is never fully realised. Plus if they present a valuable representation of diversity that is more than…