qwertymodo

So far, GK are the only ones I've seen making TMR sticks for the Switch JCs. There's CHEAPER options for the full-size stickboxes like the Pro Controller, but as fast as I can tell they're just white label/knockoffs, same quality just cheaper, nobody is making anything better (that I know of).

It's... terrifying. But, like, in a cool way.

Nah, I have an adapter for that. At this point, I'm just sick of wasting time trying to debug dev boards only to find out it was the cable all along.

I swear I have another box full of cables around here somewhere. I need another empty box anyway for full-size type-B cables. But this is a huge improvement.

Just picked up one of these cheap USB cable testers, and it's the best $10 I've spent in awhile. Halfway through testing and sorting my entire box of random cables, throwing out all of the useless 2-wire "charge only" cables, separating out 2.0 vs 3.0 type-C, etc.

www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807...

If you're building flexures, PETG is the way to go, no question, regardless of environment. Other filament materials end up suffering stress fatigue failure with repeated flexing, PETG keeps going like a champ. I just have a long love-hate relationship with it over print failures.

Turned out great, haven't had time to build the rest of it though. The key to bed adhesion for PETG is a garolite bed plate heated up over 85C *measured* surface temp. It's an insulator so I have to set the bed to over 100C to get there, but then it sticks amazingly and releases perfectly when cool.

Oh neat, I didn't notice the attiny.

By "overclock with a button combo" do you mean the SGB Commander sequences? Because those are supported on the stock SGB2.

Audio output: "Pro Sound" mod, panel mount jack style of your choice
Serial connectivity: Original link port output and/or built-in ArduinoBoy MIDI interface
Power: On-board linear power supply for clean audio
Misc: Aesthetics, etc.

Some of the possible options to discuss:
CPU: DMG or SGB (fast boot)
Controls: Panel-mount buttons and/or controller port (e.g. SNES)
Screen: Backlit? Bivert? Color? (RGB/changeable?)
Video output: Optional USB-UBC via built-in GB Interceptor
Cart slot: Optional built-in flash cart

2U is the smallest it can be it you want the screen. If you want a fully headless unit (or possibly external screen via USB), then 1U would be possible. Price depends, it would be a bespoke build with lots of optional configuration, so that would all be discussed ahead of time. But... not cheap.

Does anybody want a 2U rackmount DMG GameBoy for chiptunes? Because I have plans for one, and really want to build it, but I have absolutely no use for the thing and can't afford a useless project, so I'd love to build this thing for somebody who would actually use it...

And the MLP existential horror.

ifixit usually provides a bottle of solvent with their kits that makes it a lot easier to remove, you just have to be careful with it because it damages plastic (pretty sure it's a mixture of acetone and isopropyl).

Weird how they went with the Star Wars numbering system but only ever released 7.

No worries. Nice to hear they added the option since then.

The LCD Jewel project is still in the works, it is moving to a new MCU. The ESP32-P4 is a powerful video enabled MCU that is designed for multimedia, which is what I want the Jewel to do. Here is my first PCB Test, I am just waiting on the P4 to drop for mass manufacturing.

This was a 4-year old archived post. BSky's attempt to avoid abuse of their API by faking older posts has led to the opposite problem in cases like this.

Yeah, we're decommissioning a bunch of workstations and servers, and I was able to convince them to let me pull fans and disassemble hard drives instead of just drilling them out. Gathering a nice collection of still-usable bits.

Well, without having hands on the thing or a known service history, I can't really say any more than that, but here's hoping it's one of the easy options (fluid/filter change) because if not, the answers get pretty ugly pretty fast. Good luck!

Probably not clutch plates then, do you know when was your last transmission fluid replacement? It's a 70,000-100,000 mile sort of thing, so it might have been awhile

Just look at this absolute beast. 150mm x 50mm, almost 260CFM. 1.8A@12V. This thing rips.

Just upload entire OSTs as single concatenated videos with chapters :P

Could be as simple as low fluid pressure/clogged filter, could be bad solenoid(s) or just a blown fuse. If it shifts but the car doesn't move, could be worn clutch plates.

...or it could be a completely blown transmission.

It's a stack of 5 or 6 platters. Working on decommissioning a pile of old desktops.

Also, some hot new content for my OnlyFans