Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2026 edition
This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April: - Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database (posted December 16, 2024) - Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition - A detailed look at Everest's commercial, standard and non-standard routes. (posted December 19, 2024) - How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition - My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest, solo, unsupported and guided. - Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage - an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season. 2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. This is an updated post of my annual "Comparing the Routes of Everest " blog post. For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes is the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For today's commercial clients, all other routes are too dangerous, complicated, and not commercially guided. This post will examine the various routes and explore the most popular commercial through 2024. Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer's. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on the button, which is always at the top right sidebar. #everest2025
Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2026 edition
This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April: - Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep…
28.01.2026 13:41 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: Plans for Two 8000ers, No O’s
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. As usual, Ryan will film the climbs and post on his very popular YouTube channel. We also discussed the upcoming Everest season and some potential policy changes, especially on the Nepal side. #everest2026
Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: Plans for Two 8000ers, No O’s
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its…
24.01.2026 00:50 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Everest 2026: Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage
Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain three other times (all from the Nepalese side): 2002, 2003, and 2008. On these attempts, I reached just below the Balcony around 27,500 feet (8400 meters) before health, weather, or my judgment caused me to turn back. I also attempted Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. Although the climbing season is still a few months away, I’ll publish several big-picture articles before activity ramps up in early April. Once the season begins in early April, updates become more frequent and intensify during the summit pushes of mid-to-late May. You can sign up for (or cancel) email notifications in the lower-right sidebar, or simply check the site regularly. #everest2026
Everest 2026: Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage
Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain…
13.01.2026 20:53 — 👍 3 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
7-Summits-in-One-Year-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison
As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times on Cho Oyu, watched one of his teams struggle, like the others, on K2, and is actively guiding on Vinson. We discussed all this, including what to expect for Everest in 2026, with the more expensive permit fees, new requirements for Everest applicants from China, and proposals from Nepal. #everest2026 An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over 40 expeditions and adventures that most of us only dream of. He's been to the North and South Poles, summited Everest twice, jet-boated the entire length of the Ganges River, and more. He's also an accomplished author, speaker and adventure guide company operator. I first met Peter at Everest Base Camp in 2003 and again last month here in Colorado, where I thoroughly enjoyed one of his legendary talks. In this podcast, we discuss Peter's relationship with his father, his upbringing, adventures, and the future of mountaineering. We also discuss the Himalayan Trust, a foundation started by his father in 1961 that continues today, building schools, infrastructure, roads, and more throughout Nepal, a country close to Peter's heart.
7-Summits-in-One-Year-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison
As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times…
23.12.2025 23:46 — 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris Tomer
Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest. The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter climbs have yet to begin in earnest. But soon, we will have activity in Antarctica with adventurers attempting full crossings, climbers going for Vinson, Tyree and maybe an unclimbed peak or two. Then, as we move towards the new year, the slopes of Acocnagua become busy with a new group of aspirants wanting to test themselves at 7,000 meters, perhaps for training for an upcoming Everest climb. In this Podcast, I briefly review the 2025 year in mountaineering and share my thoughts on a “Climber’s Holiday Season." #everest2026
2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris Tomer
Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to…
13.12.2025 00:45 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Everest 2026: Khumbu Icefall Bypass-Real or a Dream?
Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest summit. These articles seem to confuse a new route with an old trekking route reopened, and may not have thoroughly fact-checked some of the performance claims. While the overall press is limited and has not gone mainstream, the facts are not as simple as "new summit route." I believe commercial operators will rarely use the route on Nuptse's flanks to bypass the Icefall, as it is too difficult for today's average Everest climber. Still, it may be used by a few who have the skills and desire to avoid the Icefall. Let's take a look at the proposed new route, its history, then fact-check some of the claims, including that the Icefall is the most dangerous section when climbing Everest, and finally, a look at what today's climbers can do if they have Icefall concerns. #everest2026
Everest 2026: Khumbu Icefall Bypass-Real or a Dream?
Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest…
25.11.2025 19:20 — 👍 3 🔁 1 💬 0 📌 0
Podcast with Peter Hillary
New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953. An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over 40 expeditions and adventures that most of us only dream of. He's been to the North and South Poles, summited Everest twice, jet-boated the entire length of the Ganges River, and more. He's also an accomplished author, speaker and adventure guide company operator. I first met Peter at Everest Base Camp in 2003 and again last month here in Colorado, where I thoroughly enjoyed one of his legendary talks. In this podcast, we discuss Peter's relationship with his father, his upbringing, adventures, and the future of mountaineering. We also discuss the Himalayan Trust, a foundation started by his father in 1961 that continues today, building schools, infrastructure, roads, and more throughout Nepal, a country close to Peter's heart.
Podcast with Peter Hillary
New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953. An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over…
10.10.2025 17:52 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Autumn 2025: Stranded Tourists, Manaslu Summits and More
With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have received permits. On Manaslu, at least 170 members were supported by 187 Sherpas, totalling 357 summits, with more to come.
Autumn 2025: Stranded Tourists, Manaslu Summits and More
With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing…
06.10.2025 16:51 — 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Everest 2025 Podcast with Bianaca and Paul Adler
Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Alder, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as she struggled to breathe upon returning to Camp 4 at the South Col after reaching 8163 meters on the 8848-meter peak. She climbed with Rinji Sherpa of the Makalu region. This podcast discusses Paul's Everest attempt and summit, Bianca's Ama Dablam attempt and summit and of course, Everest with the risks, decision-making, and emotions. I think you'll enjoy meeting this young lady, who, by the way, has become friends with Ryan Mitchell. The two give me a lot of hope for the sport I love, seeing two very mature young people embracing mountaineering. #everest2025
Everest 2025 Podcast with Bianaca and Paul Adler
Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Alder, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as…
03.10.2025 22:43 — 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Autumn 2025: Everest Ski Descent and Manaslu Records
With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have received permits. On Manaslu, at least 170 members were supported by 187 Sherpas, totalling 357 summits, with more to come.
Autumn 2025: Everest Ski Descent and Manaslu Records
With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing…
26.09.2025 17:06 — 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
World Alzheimer’s Day, September 21, 2025:
• Alzheimer’s is not a normal part of aging and can also occur in people as young as their 40s or 50s (“early-onset Alzheimer’s”).
• There is currently no cure; treatment focuses on symptom management and improving quality of life.
21.09.2025 18:19 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins
The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.
Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins
The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.
19.09.2025 17:58 — 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 Podcast with Ryan Mitchell–After K2
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams. They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they climbed a previously unclimbed peak near K2 for acclimatization, so there was some solid mountaineering this year for the Madison Mountaineering team led by Terray Sylvester. They also collected 600 pounds of trash, primarily from the K2 Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp, which were exposed to unexpectedly dry and warm conditions. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. Ryan is currently dropping a new YouTube episode almost daily on his channel, which provides his followers with a unique inside look at what K2 offered in 2025. #k2025
K2 Podcast with Ryan Mitchell–After K2
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams. They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they…
09.09.2025 01:27 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: Death after Summit
A tragic incident occurred involving one of Imagine Nepal's clients. She was inadvertently struck by a rock between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp and sadly lost her life. She had successfully summited with Mingma G's Imagine Nepal team on August 11. #K2025
K2 2025 Coverage: Death after Summit
A tragic incident occurred involving one of Imagine Nepal's clients. She was inadvertently struck by a rock between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp and sadly lost her life. She had successfully summited with Mingma G's Imagine Nepal team on August 11. #K2025
13.08.2025 16:09 — 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: Dozens K2 Summits in Rough Conditions – Update 1 | The Blog on alanarnette.com
UPDATE: August 12, 2025: Nine more summits were reported late, bringing the total to at least 41. It appears, but not 100% confirmed, that all have descended safely. August 11, 2025 - 32 K2 summits we...
UPDATE: August 12, 2025: Nine more summits were reported late, bringing the total to at least 41. It appears, but not 100% confirmed, that all have descended safely.
August 11, 2025 - 32 K2 summits were reported.
www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08...
12.08.2025 21:20 — 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: Dozens K2 Summits in Rough Conditions
August 11, 2025 - There were 27 reported K2 summits by Imagine Nepal Team and Prakash Sherpa’s Climber Alpinist Expeditions (CAE). Safe descents have not been confirmed. #K2025
K2 2025 Coverage: Dozens K2 Summits in Rough Conditions
August 11, 2025 - There were 27 reported K2 summits by Imagine Nepal Team and Prakash Sherpa’s Climber Alpinist Expeditions (CAE). Safe descents have not been confirmed. #K2025
11.08.2025 16:37 — 👍 1 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: Risk Taking Case Study
With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Shera and Terray Sylvester, Madison Mountaineering lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11. With only a few teams left on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemntal oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers Jan Polacek, Lenka Polackova, and Pakistani Sohail Sakhi. French climber Charles Page, guide by Vinajak Malla was last reported at 7516 m/25,658 feet, the alttiude of traditional Camp 4 as of August 10 per his Inreach. Regardless of classification, they must work together to set the ropes, break the trail, and reach the summit. Then, they must descend, which might be one of the riskiest in recent history. Remaining teams include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, and Elete Expeditions. As of yesterday, the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. With Page's report, they are obvioulsy higher now as they are on their sumit push. Teams expect to summit on Monday, August 11. #K2025
K2 2025 Coverage: Risk Taking Case Study
With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Shera and Terray Sylvester, Madison Mountaineering lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too…
10.08.2025 21:28 — 👍 2 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: Slow K2 Summit Progress But Optimism Prevails
The unrelenting winds stalled most teams and sent more members home as time, supplies and motivation ran out. Most teams are not updating their social media, so information is difficult to come by. We now understand that the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, which would be around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. Teams are expecting to summit on Monday, August 11. The upper mountain is reported to be in good condition, with the largest area of concern between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp, which has persistent rockfall. There are just a handful of teams left on the mountain, all with few climbers. They include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, Elete Expeditions and Madison Mountain Guides. #K2025
K2 2025 Coverage: Slow K2 Summit Progress But Optimism Prevails
The unrelenting winds stalled most teams and sent more members home as time, supplies and motivation ran out. Most teams are not updating their social media, so information is difficult to come by. We now understand that the fixed…
08.08.2025 22:10 — 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: K2 Summit Push On!
After almost five weeks, a weather window long enough for a summit attempt on K2 has emerged. Most teams and many individuals have left, but an estimated (very rough guess) that 20-30 total people, split equally between commercial and independent climbers, remain for the summit push starting today, August 5, 2025. #K2025
K2 2025 Coverage: K2 Summit Push On!
After almost five weeks, a weather window long enough for a summit attempt on K2 has emerged. Most teams and many individuals have left, but an estimated (very rough guess) that 20-30 total people, split equally between commercial and independent climbers,…
05.08.2025 16:33 — 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
K2 2025 Coverage: Another Windy Monday, Another team drops out.
The winds continue across the Northern Territories, now hitting the Gasherbrums. One team stopped their summit attempt on GII, citing poor conditions above C3, while another gave up on Broad Peak. For those remaining on K2 and BP, they're constantly glancing at their watches, calendars, and the summit. Tick, tock-time is running out. They can only hope for a three-day window of low winds. Then, only the strongest will be able to climb that fast, break through the deep snow and fix the lines—a tall order for any team or individual. Popular US climber Ryan Mitchell is at K2 Base Camp and texted me, "Forecasts not looking good for winds." #K2025
K2 2025 Coverage: Another Windy Monday, Another team drops out.
The winds continue across the Northern Territories, now hitting the Gasherbrums. One team stopped their summit attempt on GII, citing poor conditions above C3, while another gave up on Broad Peak. For those remaining on K2 and BP,…
28.07.2025 15:21 — 👍 0 🔁 0 💬 0 📌 0
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Nepal is a landlocked country in South Asia, bordered by China and India. It has 7 states, 77 districts, and 26.4 million people. Kathmandu is the capital, known for Mount Everest and diverse festivals.
Operational Meteorologist. Provide forecasts for the Washington Cascades. Also, provide weather forecasts for Mount Everest and other mountain locations
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Berkeley professor, former Secretary of Labor. Co-founder of @inequalitymedia.bsky.social and @imcivicaction.bsky.social.
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